Time 4 Tires

I got tires this morning.  4 tires.  From Big O Tires in Chino Hills. I had in my head Aspen Touring tires because that's what I got a couple of years back while in Colorado.  That was 2014.  So my tires lasted for 2 years.  But I blew it.  I did not write down the odometer when I got those tires, and I am sure that the receipt is lost to oblivion.  Today's odometer reads 204, 804.  Already, I don't like how the Sumitomo handle.  On sharp turns, the tire does not absorb the range needed in a turn, so it hops a little.  I don't trust this.  Don't trust what it is going to cost me down the line in terms of alignment or axle repair. 

I went in hoping to spend about $350.  I spent $512.92.  Ouch!  
Seems like I am always hurting these days.  

Here's what they got me for:
4 195/65R 15 91T Sumitomo Tour Plus LS-T BLK tires

eBay has these same tires, 2 for $139, and I paid $100 each.  Ouch! This is what I get for not shopping in advance.  Always go to eBay to check pricing.  Always.  At least just to get pricing.  

   

Product	Amount	Unit Price	Total Price
4 195/65R 15 91T Sumitomo Tour Plus LS-T BLK tires	4	$100/ea.	$399.96
Mount & Balance	4	$20/ea.	$79.96
Stem Excluding TPMS			Free
*Alignment Recommended*			No Charge.
Tire Disposal Fee	4	$3/ea.	$12/Total
State Tire Tax (Yep, a state tire tax?:-/)	4	$1.75/ea.	$7
Wheel Alignment 6 Months		$89	-$89
Coupon Tire (I got the "Buy 3, Get 1 Free") -$99.99	1	-$99	-$99

 You can see the itemized charges here: Pending.

And the total here:

Here are my old tires, the four reasons that compelled me to shell out $512 to some strangers in Chino Hills.  

The tire at the far left is a Sinclair tire I got at Richard's Automotive years ago.  Don't know how many miles or how many years old it is.  The middle tire, I believe (not sure), is the Firestone or Goodyear tire.  

Okay, the tire on the bottom with the bare thread was one of the two Aspen Tourings on my front axel.  That particular tire was on my left front with the thread bare portion on the inner most part of the alignment where you can't see it standing outside.  The tire on top is the other Aspen Touring. And though its thread is not bare, you can certainly see the loss of tread at the top of the edge of the tire.  The salesman at Big O Tires told me that that loss of tread and the exposure of the thread is due to misalignment.  True or no?

It's one thing to price one's tires, it's another thing to measure your tires and what the measuring letters and numbers mean (this is a better page; it comes with diagrams).  You should know this before you go into a tire shop, so that the dealer doesn't sell you a tire that is not right for your car.  They shouldn't but we never know.  

SIZE METRIC 

(see this guide)

Tire Class
"P" stands for "Passenger Tire."  The first character(s) in a tire size designate the tire's class.  In this example, "P" indicates that the tire is a passenger car tire.  An "LT" before the tire size designates a "light truck," and no letter before the zie indicates that tit is a European metric tire.  

Section Width "205"
A metric tire's section width is measured in millimeters.  This measurement is taken from sidewall to sidewall.  In this example, the section width of the tire is 205mm. 

Aspect Ratio "65"
This number refers to the height of the sidewall.  It is a percentage of the section width.  In this example, 65% of the section width of 205mm equals 133.25

Tire Construction
The "R" in this example indicates radial tire construction. 

Wheel Diameter "16"
This indicates the wheel diameter in inches. 

Aspect ratio of sidewall (Example: P225/ 45R17 91V).  The 2-digit numnber that usually follows the tire's section width tells us the aspect ratio, or the tire profile measurement.  In this example, the 45 indicates that the sidewall distance, from the wheel rim to the outside of the tread, is 45% of the section width.

How can you tell if a tire is a 10 Ply?

A "C" indicates the tire has a 6-ply load carrying capacity.  The tire is not actually built with 6 plies, but contains one or two plies of equivalent strength.  A "D" is an 8-ply rating, and an "E" is a 10-ply rating.  If there is no letter, the tire has a standard 4-ply rating.  

SIZE (HIGH FLOTATION TIRE 

measured in inches instead of millimeters) 

Funny word for codes for tire size 

Diameter "35"
The first number indicates the tire's diameter in inches.  In this example, the tire manufacturer has determined that this is a 35" tire. However, actual measured overall diameters vary fromone manufacturer to the next.  

Tire Width "1250"
Standard tire width is indicated in inches with the decimal point removed.  Therefore, in this example, the number 1250 indicates that this tire is 12.5" wide.

Tire Construction "R"
The "R" in this example indicates "RADIAL" tire construction.

Wheel Diameter "17"
This indicates the wheel diameter in inches.

Piles "E"
This letter indicates the load carrying capacity of the tire in terms of its construction.  A "C" indicates the tire has a 6-ply load carrying capacity.  The tire is not actually built with 6 piles, but contains one or two piles of equivalent strength.  A "D" is an 8-ply rating, and an "E" is a 10-ply rating.  If there is no letter, the tire has a standard 4-ply rating.  

LOAD INDEX & SPEED RATING

Load Index "92"
The load index indicates the maximum amount of weight a tire can safely carry.  Load index ranges from 0 to 279 and corresponds with the load-carrying capacity of a tire.  Passenger car tire load indices typically range from 75 to 105.  It is very important to maintain the proper load index for your vehicle when replacing your tires.  See our load index chart for more information.  See the load index table.

Speed Rating "H"
A tire receives its speed rating from the U.S. Government by meeting minimum standards for reaching and sustaining a specified speed.  In general, a higher speed rating will result in better vehicle handling.  See our speed rating page for more information and a list of the various speed ratings.  

U.S. DOT & SAFETY STANDARD MARKINGS

DOT
The "DOT" marking indicates that the tire meets or exceeds the U.S. Dept. of Transportation safety standard for tires.  

Manufacturer Plant Code "CC"
The first two letters following the DOT marking are codes to identify the manufacturer of the tire and the tire manufacturing plant.  

Tire Size "9L"
The 3rd and 4th characters following the DOT marking are codes representing the tire size.

Brand Characteristics "YYY"
The final 3 or 4 letters are codes representing other significant characteristics of the tire as determined by the manufacturer.

Manufacturer Week "11"
The first pair of digits identifies the week the tire was manufactured.  In this case, the tire was manufactured in the 11th week.  The number 01 would indicate the first week of January, whereas the number 52 would indicate the last week of December. 

Manufacture Year "05"
The 2nd pair of digits identifies the year that the tire was manufactured, in this case, 2005.

TREADWEAR, TRACTION & TEMPERATURE

Treadware "520" 
The treadware rating is a measurement of the tire's durability, but not the projected tread life.  It is important to remember that road surfaces, driving habits, and other factors determin actual tread life. Each tire manufacturer independently determines treadwear through their own tests.  Treadware is not based on any one industry or government standard.  

Traction "A"
The traction rating is a measurement of a tire's ability to stop on a straight, wet surface under controlled conditions.  It does not indicate the tires's cornering ability on a wet surface or its traction on ice or snow.  Traction grades include AA, A, B, and C, with AA being the highest grade available.

Temperature "A"
The temperature rating is a measurement of a tire's resistance to heat generation under normal operating conditions at recommended inflation pressures.  Temperature grades range from A to C, with A being the highest rated and therefore most resistant to heat generation.  Learn more about Treadware, Traction & Temperature. 

MAXIMUM LOAD LIMIT & AIR PRESSURE

Maximum Load Limit "635 kg [1400 lbs]"
This indicates the tire's maximum load-carrying capabilities when the tire is inflated to its maximum inflation pressure, as indicated on the sidewall.  Max load is based on standards set by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). 

Maximum Air Pressure "300 kPa [44psi]"
This indicates the maximum operating inflation pressure of the tire. It does not indicate the manufacturer's recommended inflation pressure, nor does it indicate the proper air pressure based on the vehicle the tire is mounted on. This category is also based on the NHTSA standards. 

Note: Some tires are marked "Extra Load," "XL," or "RF" (for reinforced).  This simply denotes that the tire's indicated maximum load and air pressure are highter than a standard load tire. 

PLY CONSTRUCTION

 This indicates what materials are used in the tire's plies, and the quantity of each type included.  Learn about other components of a tire's construction.

ROTATION DIRECTION

Some tires indicate the direction of rotation on the sidewall, while others indicate a specific side of the tire that's intended to face outward from the vehicle.  Another type of tire combines both indications.  It is important that these tires be mounted according to the indicated instructions.  

Directional Tires
Directional tires feature arrows on the sidewall that indicate what direction the tire should rotate when the vehicle is moving forward.

Asymmetrical Tires
Asymmetrical tires have the word "outside" labeled on the side of the tire that should face outward from the vehicle. 

Directoinal & Asymmetrical Tires
Tires that are both directional and asymmetrical will indicate what direction the tire must rotate, as well as what side must face outward from the vehicle.  

Police Radars, Spare Donuts, V-8s, V-6s, and KIAs

Woods has a 93% male audience?  Wow!!  Give a listen to his interview with Eric Peters.  End run and dodge all of the tax farming.

Today's show has Eric Peters, who runs Eric Peters Autos, EPautos.com.

Car guy?

Of sorts.

RADAR DETECTOR
First topic: Radar detector.  Do they work?  No one likes being pulled over.

Get one.  These will save you money.  He's out on the road driving a lot.  And wouldn't feel safe without his Valentine One Radar Detector.  These are not cheap, $450!  Said it has saved him thousands of dollars.  Consistently found to have the greatest sensitivity to police radar.  Prevents non-cop radar from bothering you.  It can track several radars coming at you.  And works with different apps.  Apps don't tell you in real time with radar who just turned it on.  The app is more like flash a light, pipe a warning of a speed trap.

Valentine One Radar Detector

Radar emanates from sources other than police cars.  It will emanate from garaage doors, automatic doors.  Many new cars come with new technologies that come with radar and laser, and an Audi will emanate a radar.  The V1 has new software.  Mike developed the escort software.  Valentine gives you an actual threat. 

What about the interest in Tesla.  Cars catching on fire.  Disparate reaction to the problem of auto-igniting of Tesla cars.  Ride and Drives for journalists, like Peters.  Strong evidence there is a design problem.  Lithium Ion battery packs.  

Government is funding Tesla and the state of Michigan is investing and buying stock in its company.  Subsisding 911 Porsche for high-paid government workers.  

Self-driving cars?  Are they still testing it out?  Or is it a stupid idea?  Question of infallibility.  Anything build by people there will be problems.  Self-driving cars are encouraging to not pay attention and not be responsible.  Sensors fail.  Out on the road these cars will accrue mileage.  Parts wear, moving parts wear and wear out. Computer that operates in a car works in a much harsher environment.  The computer in your car has to be tough: 100 to -12 temps degrade mechanical parts.  Self-driving car has an aura of inevitability.  

What's the context of self-driving car campaign?  Manhattan residents who drive a few miles.  Different mind set for those who drive 100 miles on the weekends or commute that to work.  Not infallible; plus, the campaign is forcing these cars on people.  

SPARE TIRE
The donut spare?  Roll along on it for 50 miles and you're okay. Origins of the donut spare.  Why from a perfect spare tire.  It's a temporary use only to gimp you down to the gas station.  It's much smaller.  Not designed for high-speed use.  Typically 18/19 inch wheels.

Has to do with pressure that all the car companies are dealing with to meet corporate average fleet fuel economy requirements.  Those are the mandatory minimum fleet averages that every car compnay has to meet or they get his with the gas guzzler fines.  By eliminating full-sized spare tire, you drop about 30 lbs. from the car's curb weight.  If that gives them a fractional increase per car, that's factored in a 100,000 vehicles it adds up.  That's the chief reason for getting rid of the full sized spare in most vehicles and replacing it with this idiot temporary use spare.  And the crappy and unsafe jack you use at your peril.  Heavy duty jacks are gone because they're heavy.  

In the market for a pick-up truck and wondered why they're so expensive?  

V-8 ENGINES Gets back to the corporate average fuel economy requierments. Applies to trucks too.  Of course, trucks are heacvy and so they need powerful engines.  To meet the conflicting demands of government and the market place, the government has passed regulation that forces car companies to get rid of V-8 engines by replacing them with smaller, heavily turbo-charged engines.  Ford's 1500 Series, F-150: V-6 with turbo charges.  These cost more than a traditional V-8 engine.  Eco-boost engines with turbo chargers to replace the V-8s.  Aluminum bodies to lighten up the truck to get better gas mileage.  Costs go through the roof.


New car features that ought to be optional.  

LCD touch screen.  Governmt mandated the back up cameras with view screens.  A couple of people backed over a kid, now everyone has to have a backup camera.  

Air conditioning.  Lawyer caveat?  Click "Agree."  Then you put the car in reverse and try to back out and the system mutes the radio while you're backing up the car.  

New, low-end, inexpensive car that he can get cheap.  What car does he get?  Where does he go to get such a car?  An affiliate contest in November.  Top 10 people win prizes.  2nd to 10th.  #1 seller will win a brand new car.  So he needs an entry level car. Automatic transmission.  He doesn't want people to be cursing them for a free car. 

Nissan Versa?  Not a good word.  Very basic car.  You can get a radio delete.  $12,000.  They delete radio and air conditioning for a new car.  Roomy back seat.  Drive train equals a Sentra.  A to B transportation appliance.  Better would be something $1000 to $1500 nice . . . for example:  one, utilitarian side: VW Jetta Sedan. Superb Diesel engine.  1.8 liter gas engine gets about 40mpg.  VW are unique in that they are direct kin to the Audi.  VWs are less ostenatious Audis. Jettas are less expensive.  A4 and A6 sedan. Jetta less expensive. 

Sexier side: Mazda 6.  $18 to $19,000.  Known for being fun to drive.  Good looking car.  Not the fastest.  Well equipped car. Exceptional gas mileage as well.  

Tom is looking at the KIA Soul and KIA Rio.

LOW-END, INEXPENSIVE, GOOD CARS

KIA Rio

The above is the latest model Rio, 2011 to present.

KIA Soul  The 2014 model doesn't look too bad.  Generally, I do not like the sport cruiser look.  It's a crossover that in my opinion does a disservice to both the SUV and sedan.

But Tom Woods like these for the contest.  Not bad.  I would be happy with one of these as a free car.  Lots of models and sub models. 

The soul is a box car.  They're selling them hand over fist.  Roomy, versatile.  Small footprint on the outside.  High end features for the money.  Good family car.  Decent back seat.  

Rio is a subcompact, commuter car.  

Down a notch to . . . what?

Vastly inferior cars were in terms of how long they would last. Really?  

Most people still stuck in the mindset of 4/5 years or 60000 miles better get a new one.  50,000 miles today and your car is still a baby.  Short of abuse, expect the car to go 100,000 to 150,000 miles.  

Property taxes (what?) Saved 30% on insurance, much higher on a new car than a slightly used car.  Peters is very utilitarian when it comes to his cars.  He can fix them and maintain cars.  Cars depreciate massively.  Had a BMW VII, top line model $130000.  5 years from now that car will be maybe $50,000, losing $16,000 a year.  $8 or $9,000 and expect to be driving it for the next 10 years. Average car on the road today is about 10 years old.  

You'd see cars that were 4 or 5 years old with paint chipping, smoking belching.  Today's cars just don't look old.  

Peters has a wonderful community of people.  Eric Peters Autos.  EP Autos.  Service doing this for nothing.  He's like Scott Horton in foreign policy.  

Okay.  Upon the advice of my mechanic, who told me that my battery's charge was low, I went ahead and sought out an Interstate Battery dealer.  I found one in Whittier on Whittier Avenue, north of Mar Vista and south of Penn Street, one block west of Pickering.  The owner, Larry Farnworth, was terrific.  He was friendly.  That never hurts.  He was informative, telling me that my batter had at least 1.5 to 2 years left of charge.  He tested my battery.  In fact, he did three tests on my battery to reach that conclusion.  He learned too 

What I learned is that anyone can tell the age of your battery.  There is a data code stamped on your battery.  I heard him ask about an A2.  

Though Mr. Farnworth was one of the friendliest, you're never going to find any businessman reveal his secrets for fear of losing business.  Mr. Farnworth was terrific.  He was straight with me.  He even offered to clean the top of my battery for me, which he did. He sprayed what was called a Battery Cleaner.  He explained that it is essentially baking soda and water aerosoled; in other words, under pressure.  [Clean corrosion on car battery. Option two is here.]  For further cleaning, there is alwats the option of battery cleaner: 

Okay.  So he cleaned my battery, and I was thinking that he was doing something nice for me, which again it was.  But he also cleaned my battery because he needed to see the data stamp on the battery.  The grease on top of my battery was too great: he couldn't read the stamp!  Once cleaned, voila!  Data stamp was clearly visible.  

From a forum I found this: 

Don provided you with good information. Car batteries are stamped with a date code, either on the battery's case or an attached label. The vital information is usually in the first two characters-a letter and a digit. Most codes start with the letter indicating the month: A for January, B for February, and so on. The digit indicates the year: 0 for 2000, say. For example, B3 stands for February 2003. I hope this helps.  

Did you get that?  The forum member suggested the site, ManageMyLife.  All that is is a SearsPartsDirect.  This may be a better source to tell me more about my battery:

A 4 or 5-digit shipping date code is engraved into the cover of each Interstate battery at the time the battery is shipped from the manufacturing plant. This code can only be seen when looking down on the top of the battery. The code is not on the label on the battery and it is not on the rim around the cover. The code is usually near one of the corners of the battery. This code tells when the battery was shipped from the factory to the local Interstate Battery wholesale distributor. The additional digits tell where the battery was made.

The first digit from the left side is a letter which stands for the month of the year. A = January; B = February; C = March, etc. The second digit from the left is the year that the battery was shipped from the factory (0 = 2010, 1 = 2011, 2 = 2012, 3 = 2013, 4 = 2014, 5=2015).

The national policy of Interstate Battery System is to recharge our batteries that are on a dealer's shelf or in our warehouse every 3 months in order to keep them fresh. Usually, a battery is sold to a consumer during the first 3 months after it is received from manufacturing plant. 

If the battery has been recharged by an Interstate Battery wholesale distributor then there will be another date code on the cover of the battery. It will either be a 2 digit code that is branded into the cover or is on a small round label that is on the cover. In each case, the code will be read in the same way: The first digit from the left is a letter that indicates the month that the battery was recharged (A = January, B = February, C = March, etc.). The second digit indicates the year that the battery was recharged (0 = 2010, 1 = 2011, 2 = 2012, 3 = 2013, 4 = 2014, 5 = 2015).  

On amperage and voltage, this was helpful: 

For the voltage part is is fairly easy, simple and straight-forward. Usually car batteries are lead acid type which has a 2.1V/cell nominal voltage and has 6 cells so in total they give 12.6V, however in connected circuit I have measured them with my multi-meter to be at 13.3V at fully charged state. Some heavy vehicles like bus or truck may use 2/3/4 of them in series so in those cases voltage will simply add. For motor bike however, I saw 3 cell 6.3V battery too. So, either trust what is printed on them or look for the battery chemistry and count how many cells they have or just measure it yourself.

But for the measurement of current it is a bit tricky because battery won't say how much current they can provide, I mean yes they say that but differently. Like a 100Ahr car battery can theoretically provide 100A of current at it's working voltage range for 1 hour, lower the consumption to half you will get double the time and vice versa, in reality it is a bit different though. But There is another thing, the CCA rating or cold cranking amps which basically tell you how much current it can provide at a short amount of time which is needed to turn on the car. Usually this value is much more higher than the rating it has if it is a automobile lead acid battery. Like a 100Ahr car battery might have 800-1000A rated at CCA, but this is true for batteries with higher number of plates, thick plate batteries usually have low CCA.

But why even pursue an InterState Battery?  Aren't all batteries the same?  

And if you're like me and always looking for detail after detail, and bit of information after bit of information, then you might enjoy this video diagram of how a battery is constructed and how it works. This helps only when you're confronted by a mechanic who is telling this and that. Getting a few details from this videio might help you understand your mechanic's terms. All the best to you. 



Here is a Consumer Reports report on the different kinds of batteries.  Turns out that there are only 3 major battery distributors, which I found interesting and a lot more battery brands.  My mechanic, whom I trusted on my first exposure to, recommended Interstate batteries.  I should have asked why. A good friend said to me that there really is no advantage to a particular brand.  So there's that.  The last couple of batteries that I've owned have been InterState.  But I am just not that good of judge to tell you whether or not if these are superior or inferior.  I mean how many car batteries does one buy in a decade?  Two, three, maybe four batteries?  And we buy them usually in an emergency.  How many of us have extra batteries at home or an extra battery in our car, say, in our trunk?  So we buy during emergencies. 

No wonder there are stores, like InterState Battery, that are dedicated to batteries.  The tools and equipment alone that one needs to just test your battery is no small headache.  

1.  Voltmeter.  Here's what it is: 

A voltmeter is an instrument used for measuring electrical potentialdifference between two points in an electric circuit. Analog voltmeters move a pointer across a scale in proportion to the voltage of the circuit; digital voltmeters give a numerical display of voltage by use of an analog to digital converter.  A voltmeter in a circuit diagram is represented by the letter V in a circle.

You can see here what they look like and what they cost: between $10 and $20.  

2.  Hydrometer.  

A hydrometer is an instrument that measures the specific gravity (relative density) ofliquids—the ratio of the density of the liquid to the density of water.

A hydrometer is usually made of glass, and consists of a cylindrical stem and a bulb weighted with mercury or lead shot to make it float upright. The liquid to test is poured into a tall container, often a graduated cylinder, and the hydrometer is gently lowered into the liquid until it floats freely. The point at which the surface of the liquid touches the stem of the hydrometer correlates to specific gravity. Hydrometers usually contain a scale inside the stem, so that the person using it can read specific gravity. A variety of scales exist for different contexts.

These run for about the same price as a voltmeter, $10 to $20.

Anything else? There is this. Turns out that the data stamp is heat stamped into the side of the battery. Funny how it took me about 6 videos and several hours to learn of this. This is the problem with bloggers who are not specific enough. Please, dear blogger, be specific. Specific is good. The more specific the better. Please.

Oil Change #5 or #6 this year.

Well, Richard did not change my oil this morning.  It was Nick from Kerechuk.  Yes, it cost more but I got more--services that I can use but services that I did not ask for.  That's okay.  These guys are as efficient at Richard's mechanics but I trust these guys a lot more.  Richard and his crew speak Chinese.  I cannot compete with that.  I often feel I am being laughed at by Richard's staff, particularly Hai, the short Vietnamese guy who does major work on engines.  He switched out my thermostat back in 2014.  Since then the work at Richard's has been shoddy if not downright incompetent or deliberately wrecking my car and its engine.  I spent a lot of money over the years with Richard, and I kept thinking that my money bought me some kind of special treatment.  It hasn't.  Maybe it's the Trump effect, the guy who stoked racial fires and inflammed biases to the point where neighbors no longer trust each other.  

Anyway, my oil change at Kerechuk cost me $43.55.  But for that price I got services that I can't really verify.  For example, they offer to change the oil plug bolt.  Why?  If the original one is working fine, why switch it out?  I came in for an oil change, not an oil leak though my car is leaking oil.  He also promises to check other fluids.  Again, how can I tell?  Can I tell if he checked the brake fluids and if he did, how much replacement fluid was required?  My guess is that he didn't check any of the fluids.  It's only a price gimmick.  So this is why I hate putting into the hands of others the maintenance of my private property.    

The odometer reading at the time of my oil change today was 203606.  

According to my receipt, Kerechuk performed the following:
1.  Changed oil.  Put in 4.2 quarts of of 5W-20 Mobil Clean oil. What, as opposed to old oil?  
2.  They drained the oil obviously, replaced oil filter, replaced oil drain bolt washer, added motor oil, topped off fluid levels in cooling system, transmission, power steering, windshield washer bottle, brake system and battery.  Nick did tell me that my battery charge is weak.  Said that he usually gets the InterState battery. Interstate batteries is in Whittier.  Used batteries go for $45; new ones, $120.  InterState is located one block west of Pickering on Whittier just north of Mar Vista at: 

7327 Whittier Avenue
Whittier, CA 90602
562-698-9800.  
Closed Saturdays!  Unbelievable.




And they set tire pressure @32psi.  PSI is pounds per square inch. What does that mean in terms of pressure? more accurately, pound-force per square inch  (abbreviations: psi, lbf/in², lb_f/in²,  lbf/sq in,  lb_f/sq in) is a unit of pressure or of stress based on avoirdupois  units.  It is the pressure resulting from a force of one pound-force  applied to an area of one square inch:

1 psi = ${\displaystyle {\frac {1{\text{ lbf}}}{(1{\text{ in}})^{2}}}}$ ≈ ${\displaystyle {\frac {4.4482{\text{ N}}}{(0.0254{\text{ m}})^{2}}}}$ ≈ 6894.757 N/m²

2000 Honda Accord 2.3 LX

Mid-size car

4/5 · Autoblog

Model: 2000 Honda Accord

Engine: 2.3 L 4-cylinder

Horsepower: 148 to 150 hp

MPG: Up to 25 city / 31 highway

Curb weight: 2,943 to 3,053 lbs

Torque: 148 to 152 lb-ft

Dimensions: 187-189″ L x 70″ W x 55-57″ H